Ford Everest Towing Setup: Our Complete Touring Build for the Big Lap
How we turned a stock V6 Ford Everest into the ultimate towing machine for a 3.2 tonne caravan
When we decided to tackle the Big Lap of Australia, we knew we needed a vehicle that could handle the job.
Our caravan, “Sunny,” is a 21ft 6 semi-off-road van that weighs in at roughly 3.2 tonnes fully loaded. That is a substantial amount of weight to tow around the continent.
We chose the Ford Everest for its powerful V6 engine and comfortable ride, but we knew that in its “stock” factory form, it wasn’t quite ready for the heavy hauling we had planned.
Like most modern 4WDs, the factory suspension and payload limits are quickly eaten up once you add a bull bar, a fridge, roof racks, and the heavy tow ball weight of a large caravan.
We didn’t want to travel Australia constantly looking over our shoulder for a weighbridge or worrying if we were legal. We wanted a rig that was safe, compliant, and capable of taking us off-grid with confidence.
Over the last 12 months, we have extensively modified our Everest to turn it into a dedicated towing platform. From GVM upgrades to 12V power systems, every modification has a specific purpose: keeping us safe and keeping the beers cold.
Here is exactly how we set up our Ford Everest to tow “Sunny” around Australia.
Weights, GVM & Suspension
The biggest challenge with modern 4WD wagons like the Everest is the payload. By the time you hook up a heavy caravan with a 300kg+ tow ball weight, add a bull bar, a fridge, and two passengers, you are often dangerously close to (or over) the factory Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM).
We noticed immediately that the stock suspension was too soft for heavy towing. The rear end sagged significantly under load, which affects steering, braking, and headlight alignment. To fix this, and to ensure we were 100% legal, a complete suspension overhaul was non-negotiable.
The GCM Upgrade
To solve our weight issues legally, we opted for a full Lovells GVM and GCM Upgrade. This didn’t just give us stiffer suspension; it legally increased the amount of weight our car can carry and the total combined weight of the car and caravan.
This upgrade involved replacing all four springs and shock absorbers with heavy-duty components. The result is a vehicle that sits level, handles beautifully (even in crosswinds), and gives us a crucial safety buffer on our axle limits. It changed the towing experience completely.
Never guess your weights. Before spending a cent on upgrades, we took the fully loaded car and caravan to a weighbridge. Knowing exactly what each axle weighed was the only way to choose the right suspension setup. Not sure where your setup sits? Use our free GVM & GCM calculator to check your numbers before you spend a cent.
Upgrading the Rubber: Why Tyres Matter
One of the first things we changed on the Everest was the tyres. The factory-fitted tyres are perfectly fine for the school run or shopping trips in the suburbs, but in our opinion, they are simply not fit for purpose when it comes to towing a 3.5-tonne caravan around Australia.
The Problem with Stock Tyres
We found the factory tyres were too soft in the sidewall. When towing “Sunny,” this caused the car to roll and “squirm” on the road, making for a bouncy and unsettling driving experience. They are also lightweight “Passenger” rated construction, which makes them highly prone to punctures on gravel roads.
Our Choice: Falken Wildpeak AT3W (LT)
We swapped to Falken Wildpeak All-Terrains in the Light Truck (LT) construction. If you are towing a big rig, we believe an LT tyre is non-negotiable.
Why we chose the LT version:
- Stiffer Sidewalls: They have much stronger 3-ply sidewalls. This eliminates that “squirming” feeling and makes the car feel planted and stable when towing.
- Puncture Resistance: The tougher construction handles sharp outback rocks far better than stock rubber.
- Longevity: Deeper tread blocks mean they last longer before needing replacement.
LT tyres are heavier than standard tyres. Remember to account for this extra weight when calculating your payload! However, the safety and stability gains are worth every kilogram.
Dual Battery, Inverter & 12V System
Dual Battery & 12V System
To stay off-grid, we need reliable power. We installed a dedicated 12V system in the rear of the Everest to run our fridge and charge our camera gear independently of the car’s start battery.
We fitted a iTechWorld 120 ah auxiliary battery tucked neatly behind the second row of seats on the new false floor. This is managed by a built in DC-DC charger, which tops up the battery while we drive and isolates it when we stop.
The 2000W Inverter Upgrade
We didn’t just want 12V power; we wanted 240V power for cooking. We installed a iTechWorld 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter, which allows us to run household appliances from the car.
Why do we need this much power?
Instead of carrying heavy gas bottles or dealing with wind blowing out a gas flame, we use a portable induction cooktop.
- The Off-Grid BBQ: We simply plug the induction plate into the inverter, set it up on the tailgate table, and cook our steaks sizzle-free.
- The Benefit: It’s cleaner, faster, and safer than gas, and because the Everest battery charges while we drive, we always have “fuel” for cooking.
What this system runs:
Rear Drawers & Storage
The boot of the Everest is spacious, but without organization, it becomes a black hole of gear. We installed a Fourby Fitouts false floor and drawer system to maximize every inch of space.
First step was removing the 3rd row of seats but leaving the seatbelts in and installing the false floor. The Fourby Fitouts system was so easy to install and came with great instructions and a YouTube video but sadly the company has now ceased trading 😟.
I ordered the system with the drawer on the side I wanted and the floor was built ready to accept the battery box for iTechWorld, so it was a super simple process.
The 2000 watt Pure Sine Wave inverter was then installed on the dividing wall, the fridge was installed on the left and connected to the battery box and we were ready to go.
I ordered the system with the drawer on the side I wanted and the floor was built ready to accept the battery box for iTechWorld, so it was a super simple process.
The 2000 watt Pure Sine Wave inverter was then installed on the dividing wall, the fridge was installed on the left and connected to the battery box and we were ready to go.
This large drawer holds all our tools and spare parts. Essentials like a basic tool set, screwdrivers, basic electrical pits and pieces and a torque wrench (Absolute must have for tightening and checking wheel nuts)
Bull Bar, Roof Rack & Snorkel
Travelling the Outback means sharing the road with kangaroos, emus, and livestock. To protect the front of the car, we fitted a OCAM 4×4 bull bar. We went with a Steel bar to provide maximum protection in the event of an animal strike—essential when you are hours or days away from a mechanic or panel beater.
Up top, we added a Rhino Rack platform rack. This carries the lightweight but bulky items that don’t fit inside, like our Maxtrax recovery boards and the long-handle shovel.
We also fitted a Safari snorkel to feed cleaner air into the engine on dusty gravel roads and keep the water out during water crossings.
Communications & Safety
When you are towing 3.5 tonnes, vision and communication are vital.
Towing Mirrors
We swapped the factory mirrors for Milenco clip on towing mirrors. Being able to see down the entire side of the caravan is non-negotiable for changing lanes safely and required by law for vans over 2.4 meters in width. These extend out when towing and push back in for city driving.
UHF Radio
For communication with truckies and other travellers, we installed a GME UHF radio. The main unit is hidden under the dash with all controls on the handpiece, keeping the cabin looking clean.
We purchased the kit that included the hand held unit. This is really handy when reversing the van – Pauline can tell me I’m an idiot and “not that left, the other left”.
The hand held unit is also handy for bush walks etc just in case.
TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring)
I love our tyre pressure monitoring system or TPMS. In fact, it’s probably one of my favourite additions and it has paid for yourself already.
We run a dedicated iCheck Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) that tracks all 5 wheels on the car and all 5 wheels on the caravan.
A blowout on the van can cause a rollover before you even feel it in the car. This system gives us an instant alarm if a tyre starts losing pressure. We have had 2 slow punctures already, 1 on the car and 1 on the caravan that the TPMS picked up and alerted me to well before I could feel anything.
This early notification has allowed me to save both tyres. I have repaired both on the side of the road and inflated them and they are now the spare tyre for the car and the van.
Interior Protection & Practical Upgrades
While the suspension and 12V systems do the heavy lifting, it’s the small, practical modifications that make life on the road enjoyable. When you spend hours behind the wheel towing “Sunny,” comfort and protection become high priorities.
Here are the smaller additions that have made a huge difference to our daily touring:
- Darche 180 degree awning: Bolted onto the passenger side of the Rhino roof rack. Provides a massive 18m2 od shade when we stop for some lunch.
- Bedrock Moulded Floor Liners: Mud, red dirt, and sand are part of the lifestyle. We fitted Bedrock Liners because they are moulded perfectly to the Everest’s floor shape. They catch every spill and are incredibly easy to pull out and hose off.
- Neoprene Seat Covers: To protect the seats from coffee spills, sweat, and dust, we installed high-quality neoprene covers. They are waterproof, comfortable to sit on in the heat, and keep the factory leather looking brand new underneath.
- One Stone Armrests: The factory door armrest on the Everest is a bit narrow and hard. The One Stone Armrests widen the resting area and add soft padding. On a long drive, this small change significantly reduces shoulder and arm fatigue.
- Carpet Dash Mat: An absolute essential for Outback driving. It cuts down the glare reflecting off the dashboard onto the windscreen and protects the dash plastics from the harsh UV sun.
- Bonnet Struts: Ford didn’t include these from the factory! We added aftermarket gas struts so we don’t have to struggle with the heavy bonnet rod every time we check the oil or water.
Don’t underestimate the value of seat covers and armrests. If you are comfortable, you are less fatigued, which makes you a safer driver when towing 3.5 tonnes.
Vehicle Specifications:
|
Specification |
Details |
|---|---|
|
Make & Model |
Ford Everest Sport 2024.5 UB |
|
Engine |
V6 Turbo |
|
Tyres |
Falken Wildpeak AT3 LT |
|
GVM/GCM |
GVM – 3700 kg GCM 7200 kg |
|
Towing Capacity |
3500kg |
|
Fuel Economy |
Average 18.2 ltr’s per hundred klms when towing |
Is the Everest a Good Tow Vehicle?
After months on the road and thousands of kilometres towing “Sunny,” we can honestly say the Everest is a powerhouse.
The V6 engine pulls the 3.2-tonne van effortlessly, even up long highway hills. The 10-speed gearbox is smart enough to find the right gear without hunting, and the cabin comfort makes those long driving days much less fatiguing.
With the suspension and weight upgrades sorted, it feels planted and secure on the road. It’s not just a tow car; it’s a comfortable home base that gets us to some of the most beautiful places in Australia.
Have questions about our setup?
Are you setting up an Everest for towing? Ask us your questions in the comments below.
Thank you for a great article.
Can you tell me your rear axle weight with the van connecteRegards
Phil
Phil, when we are absolutely fully loaded in both the car and the caravan the rear axle was 2057 kg with a max of 2060 kg, so still right at the limit when we got weighed. We did move some things around and remove a few bits and pieces which will have dropped it slightly after the weigh.
Thanks for this great post!
We have a 1st gen Everest Sport bi-turbo with a 10-speed gearbox, probably the same gearbox as your car.
I’ve been driving the car in manual mode and limiting at gear 7/8 so that the engine works harder and the gearbox less so.
Just wondering if you have any tips related to this? Keen for your perspective.
Yes, we have the 10 speed gearbox. When we are towing I use tow mode and change nothing except turning off lane assist and auto start/stop. I have never messed around with driving manually or locking gears out. I just let the car use the smarts it has inbuilt.
Hi Edgar
I have the bi turbo 10 speed auto and the info book suggest using sports mode for towing which locks out gears 9-10 and turns off auto stop start. So still drives in auto.
Regards Glen